Chile Rellenos

Yes, typically these are made with poblano chiles, however, it may be time to shake things up, right? Anaheims are a bit narrower as a rule, but still large enough to stuff adequately with cheese. What more could you ask for?

8 poblano (or anaheim) chiles
3/4 pound grated mild cheddar cheese (about 3 cups)
Vegetable shortening for frying
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 large egg yolks, beaten
4 large egg whites, beaten until foamy
1/4 pound grated sharp cheddar (about 1 cup)

Accompaniment: Prepared salsa

Using a long-handled fork, char chiles over an open flame, turning, until skins are blackened, 4 to 6 minutes. (Alternatively, broil chiles on a broiler pan about 2 inches from heat, turning occasionally until skins are blistered and charred.) Transfer chiles to a bowl and let stand, covered, until cool enough to handle. Using a small knife, carefully scrape the charred skin off the chiles (leave the stems attached).

Carefully cut a lengthwise slit in each chile to form a pocket, and cut out and discard the seeds. Stuff each chile with some of the mild cheddar, and thread shut with a toothpick. In a large saucepan, melt enough shortening to reach 1/2-inch up the sides, and heat to 375 degrees F. on a deep-fat thermometer.

Preheat the broiler. In a bowl, combine flour, salt, and pepper. In another bowl, carefully fold yolks into egg whites. Working in batches, dredge the chiles in the flour and, using a slotted spoon, dip into the eggs to coat completely. Fry, turning occasionally, until golden, no more than a couple of minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chiles (careful, they are delicate) to paper towels to drain.

Arrange chiles on a flameproof plate and sprinkle with the sharp cheddar. Broil chiles just long enough to melt cheese and serve immediately, accompanied by salsa, if desired.